Thousands gathered last night to pay their last respects to former King Norodom Sihanouk, who will be cremated around 6 pm tonight.

Last night, a spectacular fireworks show to rival Disneyland’s began around 9 pm, lighting up the sky over the junction where the Tonle Sap river merges with the Mekong. More photos of the night here.

Dim sum birthday brunch last Sunday at the Yi Sang restaurant in the Almond Hotel, close to the Phnom Penh riverside. Want now and again and forever.

The late King Father Norodom Sihanouk’s body arrived at this custom built crematorium at the Veal Preah Meru square in front of the National Museum after the procession yesterday. The cremation will take place on Monday morning.

The late King Father Norodom Sihanouk’s body arrived at this custom built crematorium at the Veal Preah Meru square in front of the National Museum after the procession yesterday. The cremation will take place on Monday morning.

Christmas in Cambodia.

Christmas in Cambodia.

A great day trip from Phnom Penh - rent a mountain bike, ride out on National Road 6 across the Japanese Bridge and then about 10 km north, and hop on a ferry to Koh Dach, aka Silk Island, aka Mekong Island. Riding through friendly villages with the clicking of silk looms under most houses, in between beautifully serene landscapes, is well worth it. Take a swimsuit even. The beach at the north end is well protected from currents and quite clean. (Also very popular with Cambodians in the dry season on the weekends, so be prepared for crowds in the water then.)

A great day trip from Phnom Penh - rent a mountain bike, ride out on National Road 6 across the Japanese Bridge and then about 10 km north, and hop on a ferry to Koh Dach, aka Silk Island, aka Mekong Island. Riding through friendly villages with the clicking of silk looms under most houses, in between beautifully serene landscapes, is well worth it. Take a swimsuit even. The beach at the north end is well protected from currents and quite clean. (Also very popular with Cambodians in the dry season on the weekends, so be prepared for crowds in the water then.)

Mourning the King Father, Royal Palace at sunset.

Mourning the King Father, Royal Palace at sunset.

Kampot is a wonderful break from Phnom Penh. Fireflies, green hills and dense foliage, sunsets over the river, cricket cacophony filled nights, cozy bungalows, and good food. 
We used the new Kampot Express minibus service that leaves from the Sokimex on St. 230 near Olympic Stadium to get here. No stops, nice new vehicles, cheaper than a taxi, and frequent departures - recommended.
Off to check out the zoo now. It’s being revamped by a small organization called Footprints, at the hands of an Australian trained zoologist, after years of woefully inadequate enclosures and care when privately run for one individual’s profit. Will update!

Kampot is a wonderful break from Phnom Penh. Fireflies, green hills and dense foliage, sunsets over the river, cricket cacophony filled nights, cozy bungalows, and good food. 

We used the new Kampot Express minibus service that leaves from the Sokimex on St. 230 near Olympic Stadium to get here. No stops, nice new vehicles, cheaper than a taxi, and frequent departures - recommended.

Off to check out the zoo now. It’s being revamped by a small organization called Footprints, at the hands of an Australian trained zoologist, after years of woefully inadequate enclosures and care when privately run for one individual’s profit. Will update!

October 1, 2012. Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

October 1, 2012. Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

National Museum at dusk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

National Museum at dusk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Wait Until Dark

That 1967 suspense classic really freaked me out at my first sleepover party. Though I think as an overprotected sleepover virgin, I was the only one terrified out of my wits watching the poor blind woman get terrorized by a bunch of jerks looking for a heroin filled doll. Odd choice for a bunch of ten-year-olds in late eighties suburbia. Led to all of us running around papering the neighborhood with toilet paper, which was fun until the cops came. Being ten, we didn’t really know how to do it, so we just tore off pieces and laid them on the bushes. Sad confetti.

That’s what I’m thinking about as Santo and I sit alone in the dark waiting to see if we are about to be attacked by huge hornets. The fact that my landlord just knocked on the door to ask for Raid is not reassuring. Ten minutes ago, he told us to close all the windows and turn off the lights. Wasp nest removal, Cambodia style. Backing up …

Thank god Santo turned total Taz about 30 minutes ago and I tried to take him for a walk. I might never have seen that about 15 young Cambodian guys, protected only by their 50 cent rain ponchos, were putting a ladder up to our fence. Using my basic Khmer vocabulary, was I was able to work out that they were about to spray petrol on the wasp nest that is now the size of an average beach ball, plus arm length chamber connecting it to a tree. The wasps themselves are the size of hummingbirds.

So here I sit, house lit only by my laptop screen, listening to worrisome exclamations from outside, and hoping the screens on those windows I couldn’t get closed in my panic hold up.

At least the dang dog calmed down. 

We finally have family visiting us in Phnom Penh! Hugo’s niece has mixed feelings about Santo.

We finally have family visiting us in Phnom Penh! Hugo’s niece has mixed feelings about Santo.

On the Mekong, near Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

On the Mekong, near Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Fishermen playing volleyball on the Mekong, in the shadows of a large hotel under construction.

Fishermen playing volleyball on the Mekong, in the shadows of a large hotel under construction.

Polling place on election day in Cambodia. 

Polling place on election day in Cambodia. 

May Day in Phnom Penh.